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Oyabun is an upscale Korean seafood restaurant in Koreatown with more menus than we can keep track of: the fish here is flown in daily from Korea’s Jeju Island and can be ordered as part of an omakase, an a la carte sushi menu, or as a four-course prix fixe meal. All these potential routes for your dinner can be overwhelming, but luckily the warm staff steers you in the right direction. The buttery toro and red snapper sashimi were super delicate and sweet, the soy-marinated raw crab had the right amount of salt to balance out the intense funkiness of the tomalley, and a huge bowl of albop came decked out with sweet uni, grilled mackerel that flaked apart beautifully, and more kinds of fish roe than we thought we could eat in one sitting.

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